Hi
Southern Italy is somewhere we have wanted to visit for a while and we finally made it! We just returned from two unforgettable weeks, where we ate, explored, got soaked and embraced everything Italy threw our way. Our journey started in Naples, a city that is equally chaotic and captivating.
Naples: Chaos, Castles and a LOT of
Pizza
Let me tell you - Naples is manic. Picture a city buzzing with energy, crammed with scooters zipping past, graffiti splashed across every corner and an endless sea of people. But despite the chaos, there’s something about Naples that makes you fall in love with it. Maybe it's the history, the food, or just the pure vibrancy of it all. In our two days there, we packed in everything we could - castles, ancient underground cities and even hopped on a classic "Hop-On,
Hop-Off" bus tour. This little red bus took us around most of the city, offering seats from where we could see everything from stunning coastal views to the heart of Naples’ historic centre, complete with a running commentary on the city's rich history.
Of course, we decided that some exploring needed to be done on foot, so we ambitiously aimed to walk up to Vomero, the hilltop neighbourhood with amazing views of the city. This meant conquering so many steps.
Yes, we were supposed to do it the other way around (you know, funicular up, walk down?), but in a classic case of us “winging it,” we ended up on the wrong side of the plan. So, there we were, trudging up what felt like an endless staircase, sweating, huffing and puffing… well Paul was!!. But hey, 22,000 steps per day don’t walk themselves, right?
Once we finally reached the top, our hard work was more than rewarded by the breathtaking views from Castle
Sant'Elmo. Perched high above Naples, the castle offers a 360-degree panorama that leaves you speechless. From up there, you can take in the sprawling city, the turquoise waters of the Bay of Naples and, of course, the ever-present Mount Vesuvius looming in the distance. This was the moment we realised it was all definitely worth the trip! The castle itself is a fortress that feels like it’s been frozen in time, but let’s be honest - the views stole the show.
After
soaking in the sights (and catching our breath), we gave in to the easy way down and caught the funicular back, wondering why we didn’t just do that in the first place!
Naples is also the birthplace of pizza, so naturally, we had to experience an authentic Neapolitan pizza. It did not disappoint - thin, perfectly charred crust with fresh ingredients that tasted like pure bliss. And what’s pizza without gelato? Two days felt like just the right amount of time to absorb
the madness before we were ready to slow things down.
Ischia: Rain, Local Buses and Thermal Springs
Next stop: Ischia, a beautiful island just a short ferry ride from Naples. Our plan was to unwind and take it easy before heading to Sorrento, but Mother Nature had other ideas. On our first full day, we were greeted with torrential rain - proper, get-soaked-to-your-skin kind of rain. But did we let that stop us? Of course not! We powered through, raincoats on,
umbrella up and headed straight to the Mortella Gardens. Even though we got drenched, the gardens were breathtaking. Imagine wandering through lush, tropical greenery and colourful flowers, with winding paths and hidden ponds, all while dodging raindrops. It was magical - and I can only imagine how much more stunning it would have been in the sunshine! After the gardens, we ventured to Sant'Angelo, a charming fishing village known for its pastel-coloured houses and stunning
views. Unfortunately, the rain shut down most of the shops and cafés, so after a quick look around, we decided to retreat back to our hotel. It wasn't all bad though - our hotel was perched up high offering incredible views of the island and our host went above and beyond to make our stay as comfortable as possible.
But getting around the island? That was a different adventure altogether. Forget everything you know about orderly British queues. In Ischia, the local
buses were a whole new ball game. No queuing, no “after you” politeness -just pure, unspoken bus strategy. The locals have it down to an art form. If you don’t push your way onto the bus, you’re simply left standing on the curb, staring as it drives off. There’s no frustration or impatience on their faces - just a calm, collected, "this is how we do things here" attitude. So, we adapted, squeezing onto the buses with the rest of the crowd.
We quickly learned that getting a seat was a rare
luxury. Most of the time, we were standing, clutching onto poles and rails for dear life, because let me tell you - the driving was manic! Buses zoomed around tight corners and through narrow streets like it was a video game. You had to hold on tight or risk flying into a stranger’s lap. It was a far cry from our usual British bus rides, but it added to the whole Ischia experience.
On one of the days, we visited Forio, and it ended up being one of our favourite
towns. It had a lovely feel to it, with charming streets and a relaxed vibe. Of course, I had to try the local gelato - or in this case, sorbet. And let me tell you, it was the best sorbet I’ve ever tasted. It was bursting with flavour, and I could’ve had three more, but I had to resist (sort of).
On the way back from Forio, we decided to hop off at Casamicciola and take a little wander around before heading back to our accommodation. The rain had eased up, so it was nice to
stretch our legs and explore another part of the island. Casamicciola had its own charm, quieter and less touristy, with pretty little streets and shops. A peaceful way to end the day.
Ischia is famous for its thermal springs, so naturally, we spent an entire day soaking in the warm, healing waters. Despite a bit of rain (again!), it didn’t matter - we were going to get wet anyway! The thermal springs were a game-changer for relaxation. And yes, I even dared to take a cold
plunge! For those of you who know me, you know how much I hate the cold, so this was a massive personal victory. But let’s be honest - I sprinted right back to the hot springs afterward, which were much more my speed.
On our last day in Ischia, we made a quick stop at the island's famous Aragonese Castle. Perched on a rocky islet connected to the main island by a stone bridge, it felt like stepping back in time. With its impressive history and jaw-dropping views,
it was the perfect way to say goodbye to this peaceful island before we boarded a late ferry to Sorrento.
And that’s where our adventure continues…
Stay tuned!
Love,
Nicki xx
